IS YOUR SPF REALLY PROTECTING YOU?

Did you just get a little nervous? Maybe you should have. 

If you're like me and know the importance of sun protection, it is important to be able to verify that the SPF you chose for daily use is actually effective.

So How Do You Find Out?

Sun protection is actually a relatively new thing. Isn't that surprising? The first sunscreen was brought to the United States in 1944 - and it was only meant for air service people in the military during World War II. 

So now that you think about it, are you surprised that sunscreen use has only now been prioritized in the United States? I wasn't. My mom was one of the sun worshipers. She was in her 30s in the 1990s and sunscreen was never stressed to her growing up. She sat on the beach smothered in baby oil, often. Now she comes to her Esthetician daughter looking for help with skin concerns (such as sagging, fine lines, wrinkling and sun spots/discoloration). She is ashamed that she never knew the importance of sun protection earlier. 

Am I upset with her? No, absolutely not. I don't think her lack of knowledge is her fault. You see, the FDA only JUST finalized their OTC monograph for sun protection products in March of 2020. With that being said, I feel sun protection importance is still not as emphasized as it should be.

Excuse me, I Don't Understand.

Directly from the FDA - An OTC monograph establishes conditions, such as active ingredients, uses (indications), doses, routes of administration, labeling, and testing, under which an OTC drug in a given therapeutic category (e.g., sunscreen, antacid) is generally recognized as safe and effective (GRASE).

Within the Monograph they included a categorization for which ingredients they found to be GRASE.

So with GRASE in mind, the FDA finalized a 3 category system to classify effective active ingredients for sun protection. These categories were as follows.

Category 1: GRASE 

Category 2: Risks Associated With These Ingredients Outweigh The Benefits

Category 3: Public Record Does Not Contain Significant Data to Support a Positive GRASE Determination

The ONLY two ingredients listed in category 1, GRASE, were Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide.

Hold Up, You Mean There's Only 2 Ingredients?

TWO, dos, duo, 2, II (I think thats all the way's I know how to say '2') -  ingredients that are recognized as safe and effective for sun protection. 

WAIT JUST ONE MINUTE, What Ingredients are Listed in Categories 2 & 3?

Category 2: PABA & Trolamine Salicylate

Category 3: Cinoxate, Dixoybenzone, Ensulizole, Homosalate, Meridimate, Octinoxate, Octisalate, Octocrylene, Padimate O, Sulisobenzone, Oxybenzone and Avobenzone

Did your heart just drop? Are you getting angry at the lack of knowledge that is out there about sun protection?

Some of the most common ingredients in chemical sunscreens are Oxybenzone, Avobenzone, and Octinoxate. These are also banned in many countries around the world due to their negative effects on the coral reefs. 

I don't want to scare you with Category 3, because it is not a determination that those ingredients are not effective sun protection options. However, I do want to point out that in a study conducted by JAMA (Journal of American Medical Association), they found:

1. Avobenzone, Oxybenzone, Octocrylene, and Ecamsule exceeded the safety threshold the FDA set for absorption by 10x after ONE application.

This means that they stayed in the blood stream for at least 24 hours after their last dose. 

2. Oxybenzone and Homosalate stayed in the blood stream for at least 2 weeks after the last dose.

This isn't to say they are unsafe, but that absorption has been noted and toxicity data is needed to prove that it is safe. 

3. 1/3 of the study reported a rash where the sunscreen was applied.

This wasn't surprising to me though, as chemical sunscreen ingredients have often been associated with irritation and are not recommended for sensitized and reactive skin types. 

OK OK, Where can I get GRASE SPF?

The best news is, I have a solution for you. I know that physical sunscreens (containing zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) haven't been preferred by consumers in the past due to the white cast and chalky residue they leave on the skin.

I have found the PERFECT sunscreen formulation's that keep all skin types, tones and lifestyles in mind.

Let me introduce (cue dramatic music) - Colorescience

Colorescience formulations are fully physical sunscreen formulations containing zinc oxide and titanium dioxide as their active ingredients, aka GRASE.

They eliminated the possibility of white cast formation through the use of iron oxides which also provide another level of UV protection within the skin.

Iron oxides protect the skin against High Energy Visible Light (HEV for short). HEV consists of blue light that comes from yep, you guessed it - the sun, but also our devices. I bet you didn't think your phone, laptop or tablet screen was hurting you did you?

Did you think that since you worked from home behind your laptop all day that you were safe from sun damage? THINK AGAIN. UV damage is coming for us all in all sorts of ways. The specific damage that is coming from blue light is directly correlated to a type of pigmentation that has been found to be very resistant to known pigment lighteners (but we'll save that for another blog post).

The combination of zinc oxide, titanium dixoide and iron oxides in all Colorescience formulations has ensured maximum UV protection. In addition to UV protection, Colorescience formulations also protect against pollution and infrared radiation.

With all this in mind, Colorescience has proven to be the most versatile SPF on the market, offering a product for all life styles, skin tones and types.

Give me the options. 

Lets start with Face Shield Flex - this is an SPF50 that recently went viral on tiktok (and quite honestly one of my favorite Colorescience formulations - but I've been on the Colorescience train for well over a year and have seen the results in my clinic with my clientele + my own skin). 

This SPF formulation utilizes iron oxides to provide a tint on the skin that perfectly matches your skin tone. The perfect option for someone looking for a bit of coverage without having to apply makeup. Flex is my go-to SPF on the daily, especially when I am working. I've ditched my makeup and have fully put my trust in Flex for a flawless complexion that offers protection. 

Next up is Total Eye 3-in-1 - Yes, you guessed it, this is SPF for your eyes. This offers an SPF of 35 but also is an eye serum in one. If you are a minimalist that is looking for an eye product that does it all - look no further, Total Eye 3-in-1 can function as your eye cream, concealer, and SPF all in one.

Not a fan of color? Don't worry, Colorescience has you covered with No-Show. No-Show offers SPF50 coverage with NO WHITE CAST. They were diligent in their research to find out how to accurately distribute particles without reducing efficacy to completely eliminate the white cast associated with physical SPF products. This product has been tested on all skin tones, even the darkest that are most often victim to the white cast we know and loathe. 

But who would I be to not stress the importance of reapplying? Colorescience yet again has you covered here with their Brush-On Shields. I'm proud to point out that this brush on SPF is the only one on the market currently with an SPF rating of 50 AND water resistance. In fact, during FDA testing, Colorescience Brush-On SPF was retained on the skin better than most other sunscreen products (including lotions) due to its hydrophilic composition.

Colorescience has absolutely raised the bar when it comes to sunscreen. Not only do they meet maximum qualifications for sun protection (meeting global standards, not just FDA requirements), they also are hydrating and provide antioxidant protection that fights free radical formation and reduction. The best part? All Colorescience SPF products have received the stamp of approval from the Skin Cancer Foundation. 

Antioxidants + SPF = Healthy, Youthful Skin for Years to Come

If you're interesting in seeing the full Colorescience collection, you can shop it here.

I hope this blog post helped you to feel more confident when it comes to your sunscreen purchases! There is a lot of fluff out there on the market and I aspire to help you make healthy choices when it comes to your skin!

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